Taking the Ffestiniog Railway Steam Train in Snowdonia

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Just in case you don’t know me…. Hi, I’m Jenny and I’m addicted to steam trains. Seriously, judge me, I don’t care.

When I heard there was a steam train I could take through Snowdonia, y’all know I HAD to! The Ffestiniog Railway runs between Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog, the 13 1/2 mile journey takes an hour one way and climbs over 700 ft above sea level in the mountains.

There is also another railway, the Welsh Highland Railway that leaves from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, however, it is a little bit longer of a trip and all of the places the train was going, I was going to anyway, hence the decision for the Ffestiniog Railway.

The Ffestiniog Railway Through Snowdonia

Ffestiniog Railway History

The Ffestiniog railway line was founded in 1832 and used as a way to get slate from the mines in the mountains of Blaenau Ffestiniog down to the harbor in Porthmadog. This unique heritage railway uses a narrow-gauge train track.

Steam trains were not used at first, and horses were used instead. The horses would pull the empty slate carriages from the harbor to Blaenau Ffestiniog, the carriages were then filled with slate and a manned braking system was used to get back down to the harbor. The horses would stand in a carriage on the back and the gravity train would take them to the bottom.

By 1863, steam locomotives were pulling the carriages and transporting slate, and within a few years there was not enough power (or trains) to support the increased demand. Instead of expanding the lines (which would have been costly), a double-sided steam locomotive was created to haul larger and longer loads. (One of the engines is still in use)!!

By the time of the second world war, the slate industry had declined and all railway activity had ceased. The line became abandoned and overgrown. In the 1950’s it was decided to attempt to reopen the railway line. It reopened in sections over the next 30 years, mainly due to a hydroelectric power station and reservoir that had popped up and flooded the line, causing a diverted line to be constructed.

By 1982, the heritage railway was fully operational.

Starting Point for the Ffestiniog Railway

There are several stations along the line, however, most of them are a “wave the train down when you see it and it will stop” station. Which I semi-want to do because I’ve never hailed a train before and I think that’s awesome!

The “main” station seems to be Porthmadog, it’s a hub where both lines meet and it’s really accessible (no tiny roads to get here)! I think it also gives you the best experience, you feel like you are slowly leaving civilization and traveling deeper into the mountains.

If you want to experience the railway, but you’re on a budget, purchase a round-trip ticket for Tan y Bwlch, it’s the halfway point, but you’ll still get to soak in the beautiful scenery and while you’re waiting for the next train, you can take a walk around the lake or have some tea in the cafe.

Parking

There is parking at the station, but it is VERY limited. If you are not on the first train out and you don’t get there 30-40 minutes early, then you will have to park in the overflow parking lot which is about a 7 minute walk.

You still need to enter the main parking lot by the station so you can pay the £2.00 for parking and get a parking ticket (it’s just easier than parking and walking to the station for a ticket and then walking back and forth again).

To get to the overflow, exit the main parking lot at the station and turn left, at the Shell station, turn right. You will see the signs for the town’s parking lot ahead. You need to enter this parking lot and go straight to the back, there is a section that is specifically for the railways.

Ticket Prices

There’s a variety of different ticket options to suit everyone’s budget, but since there are so many options, it can be confusing.

There are two classes, First Class and Third Class. A “regular” ticket is a third class ticket.

If you want the most flexibility then purchase the “All Day Rover Ticket”. It’s £25.60 and you can hop on, hop off on any train, any time throughout the day. This is the perfect option for those that want to spend the whole day exploring Snowdonia along the railway.

They do specials for early mornings or sunsets, it’s £21.75 for the round trip, but it’s only for the 8:40am and 6:05pm trains.

The “Half Way” round trip to Tan y Bwlch from Porthmadog is £16.50 and from Blaenau Ffestiniog, it’s £14.20. Like I said before this is the cheapest option and great for the budget travelers that want to go on the heritage line.

My recommendation would be to leave from Blaenau Ffestiniog, I think the views are better, you go through some tight tunnels and you pass a waterfall.

If you want to experience both railways, you can purchase a one-way ticket from Blaenau Ffestiniog to Caernarfon for £40.30. That’s only one way, so the round trip will be £80.60.

It gets a little confusing with the children. Kids under 3 are free, the first child under 16 is free, and any kids after that are half-price with the purchase of a regular-priced adult ticket. This is for third class tickets only!

First Class tickets are limited and need to be purchased over the phone because they are assigned seating. The First class carriages on the Ffestiniog Railway are observation cars and located on the back of the train from Porthmadog and located on the front from Blaenau Ffestiniog. With tickets being an extra £8.00 per journey, it’s ABSOLUTELY worth it!

Observation Car

I might as well convince you further to do the observation carriage, since we were just talking about it… but, do the observation carriage!

You do have to put effort into booking the carriage because you can’t do it online, but I promise you’ll be thanking me!

Make sure you book well in advance to avoid disappointment and to get a good seat. Seats 1-6 are the best because they are right up front (and they are just fancy chairs, so they are not attached to ground), in a couple of the observation cars, 7-8 are up front too, but don’t chance it!

Heading from Porthmadog, you’ll have unobstructed views on the way to Blaenau Ffestiniog and traveling the opposite direction, you’ll get an up close and personal view of the steam train in action. (Definitely a lot cooler than I thought it would be)

Third Class Cars

Don’t worry, if you are on a budget or you don’t want to put forth the effort for First Class carriage, the third class carriages are still comfy, roomy, and give you great views.

If it’s a nice day then you can sit in the open carriage (don’t worry, there’s a top on it), but you will get wet if it’s raining or if you want a little extra room, pick the carriage that has the dining tables, so you can stretch out. There’s no assigned seating in Third Class, so take your pick!

Pay Attention

You’re on a steam train, weaving up the mountains of Snowdonia National Park, don’t forget to look out the window and enjoy.

You don’t want to miss the waterfall right outside the Tanygrisiau station, or the quick clearing through the trees that gives you the perfect view of the lake with the mountains as a backdrop.

Which Railway to Choose?

I prefer the Ffestiniog Railway because it takes you through a part of Snowdonia that you probably won’t drive through (y’all know how much I love my off-the-beaten-path places!).

If you are limited with your transportation and don’t plan on renting a car, then you should opt for the Welsh Highland Railway because you have the option to hop off and explore the quaint village of Beddgelert, hike up Mount Snowdon on the Rhyd Ddu or Snowdon Ranger track, and visit Caernarfon Castle at the end of the line.

So if you have a car, those are probably all places you will visit anyway if you are driving, so opt for the Ffestiniog line.

Points of Interest

Porthmadog is known as the gateway to Snowdonia and a great base if you want to explore more of the national park. It’s a small harbor town with great local shops, cute cafes, sandy beaches, and a backdrop consisting of coastlines and Snowdonia mountains… perfect!

Rhiw Goch isn’t much to look at while you’re passing by (it’s only a signal box), but this is where the horses would rest, sleep and eat while they were taking their journey back up to the slate mines from the harbor.

Shortly after you see the signal box, you will cross over a “big wall” known as Cei Mawr which is said to be the largest dry-stone wall in Europe. It was built in 1836 (don’t worry, it’s been reinforced since then) and carries you over a stream 62 feet below!

The Dduallt Deviation is a big loop in the track (the only of its kind in Britain) that raises the track 35 feet. This was done so the train could pass over a recently built reservoir and hydroelectric power plant in the 1960s. The train almost crosses over itself and if you are sitting in the front or the back, then you’ll get a great view of this!

Shortly after the loop, you’ll enter a long tunnel, once you’re out of the tunnel you will see the reservoir.

If you look closely, you can see the old railway tracks and tunnel which are now flooded a couple of times a day by the reservoir (which rises and falls 18 feet) and power station.

(If you look at the picture below, you can see the tunnel in the center of the photo in the distance).

Blaenau Ffestiniog used to be known as the slate capital of Wales and was a booming mining town in the mid 1800’s. Today you can zip line through the mountains, explore the Llechwedd Slate Caverns or trampoline underground in an old slate mine (not joking)!

It’s also fun weaving in and out of the slate mountains of Snowdonia and squeezing through the tiny tunnels! You almost think you won’t make it!

Other Tips

• Be careful if you hang your head out the window… (there are warning signs), but there are tunnels and cliff faces that barely give the train any room to get through.
• Refreshments are served on the train, so if you want tea, coffee, or you’re feeling a bit peckish then you can order something.
• Don’t do the open-air third class carriage on the way to Blaenau Ffestiniog, you will be right behind the steam engine, so it will be super noisy and there’s a possibility ash could get in the carriage and make it onto your clothes or in your drink.
• Don’t worry if you get a gloomy day (like I did), it’s still amazing and beautiful!
• Talk to the staff on the train! Not only will they tell you where the best curve is to get that perfect steam engine shot, but they are very knowledgeable about the trains and the landscape! I learned so many fun facts!
• Don’t take the same train back! Spend an hour in Blaenau Ffestiniog having lunch at a cute cafe and then take the following train back!
• Check out the Ffestiniog Railway on their website!

Big steam train nerd? Take a trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway in England or learn more about the history and see some famous steam trains at the National Railway Museum in York!

Are you guys traveling to Wales soon? Or did you just get back from your trip?! Let me know in the comments below!!

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